The Celeriac Special

Some really great ways with the resplendent root

I love celeriac and think it’s generally really underused as an ingredient - it’s delicious, readily available, nutritious and inexpensive. It’s essentially the root of regular celery - although they will be likely grown from different cultivars which favour properties of one over the other. Like most root vegetables it has a good amount of sweetness, but crossed with the bitter and herby notes of celery.

Celeriac has more body to it than normal celery, so can hold its own as the hero ingredient in dishes more readily. It’s a little mellower in taste than its counterpart, but the distinct similarities in flavour mean it pairs really well with the same ingredients. Both stand up really nicely to spices, love mustard, strong cheeses and winter fruits. They can both be eaten raw or cooked and add tons of flavour to the base of recipes.

I like to cut it into finger sized chunks and use it as a crunchy crudité in winter, maybe set out with some carrots, endive or winter radishes to swipe at a good dip. I would always favour this over a stick of raw celery. You don’t necessarily have to peel thinner skinned varieties if roasting - just wash thoroughly. But the gnarly roots at the base will need to be cut off with a knife - they can be used to flavour stocks.

Celeriac, mushroom & cavolo nero gratin

Recipe
Makes 4 portions

2 shallots, finely diced
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tbsp picked thyme leaves
400g chestnut mushrooms, washed and finely chopped (you can do this in a food processor)
1 medium celeriac, peeled, halved and very finely sliced into half moons with a mandoline or sharp knife
260ml double cream
260ml milk
1 heaped tbsp dried porcini, finely chopped
150g cavolo nero (or other kale), torn from the stalk, each strip broken into 4 or 5 pieces
120g grated Parmesan
1 tbsp lemon juice or white wine vinegar
1 tsp Dijon mustard
Olive oil
Salt & pepper

The gratin in progress

1. Place a large pan over a medium heat with a little oil and preheat the oven to 190c/375F fan

2. Add the shallots, garlic and thyme to the pan. Cook until softened, stirring occasionally

3. Add the chestnut mushrooms to the pan. They will release some water, stir from time to time until the pan is almost dry again - around 10 minutes

4. Add the milk, cream, dried porcini and celeriac to the pan. Bring to a gentle simmer then add the cavolo nero. Cook until the celeriac is just tender (around 10 more minutes). The liquid should be a thick coating consistency at this point. If it’s too loose continue to cook until it thickens, if it becomes very stodgy add a small splash of water

5. Stir in the lemon juice, 80g of the Parmesan, the mustard, salt and pepper to taste

6. Transfer to a baking dish or shallow oven-proof pan so that the mixture fits nearly to the top. Sprinkle over the remaining Parmesan. Bake until golden. Leave to stand for at least five minutes before serving

Roast celeriac, crispy chickpeas & tahini

Recipe
Makes 2-3 portions

1 medium celeriac, peeled and diced around 2cm
500g cooked chickpeas, drained, rinsed and patted dry
1 tsp nigella seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
Good pinch chilli powder
Good pinch ground cinnamon
1 medium shallot, finely sliced
3 tbsp lightly coloured vinegar or lemon juice
1 tsp mustard seeds
A good handful washed parsley leaves
salt & pepper
olive oil

For the tahini dressing:
2 tbsp lemon juice
3 tbsp tahini
salt & pepper

1. Preheat oven to 190c / 375F fan. Mix together the celeriac, chickpeas, nigella, cumin, chilli powder, cinnamon, olive oil and salt. Transfer to a metal baking sheet and roast until golden (around 20 minutes). NOTE: chickpeas can sometimes pop and jump about in the oven, you could either prick the chickpeas or cover with another metal baking sheet to avoid this

2. Place the vinegar (or lemon) in a small saucepan with the mustard seeds and shallot. Bring to a simmer then set the pan aside until needed

3. Mix together the tahini dressing ingredients. Adjust to a thick dressing consistency with a little water

4. Spoon most of the dressing onto a serving plate, top with the celeriac chickpea mixture, drained shallots, parsley and drizzle over the remaining dressing

Crispy tofu & remoulade

A perfect pairing of creamy celeriac remoulade with something crispy and delicious. I like to brighten up the remoulade with a little yoghurt. Always make extra as it’s a top tier fridge filler.

Recipe