All Things Brussels Sprout

4 excellent ways to eat them

Sprouts have a reputation as a particularly divisive vegetable. And I think there’s two potential avenues for criticism of them: both taste and texture.

They’re members of the Brassica/mustard family along with things like kale, turnip, cauliflower, cabbage and horseradish. As with most of those veggies, there’ve got an edge of almost spicy bitterness as well as a subtle sweetness. The Brussels sprouts I remember eating as a kid could have a decidedly horseradishy kick to them - but this has largely been bred out in more modern varieties. Certainly what you find on supermarket shelves in the UK is now consistently mildly flavoured. Whether or not you prefer this more mellow sprout, the argument of not enjoying their strong and bitter flavour has lost some credibility with time. And I do think some naysayers have just stuck to their historical guns there.

And to the second criticism I completely concur - a really overcooked, mushy sprout truly is grim. Understanding how to cook sprouts well is really key here - so I’ve included my best tips. While Brussels sprouts are an unmistakable harbinger of the festive period, they’re also just a really delicious and versatile vegetable. The UK season runs right through to March, so they’re definitely not only for Christmas.

How to prepare them

The main hurdle to a nicely cooked sprout is that the core at the stem end is slightly tougher than the rest of the vegetable. So if you were to boil a whole Brussels sprout you might have to choose between undercooking the stem end or overcooking the leafier part. This can be countered by scoring an x roughly half a centimetre deep into the root end so that heat can better permeate it. This is the best way to prepare a sprout if you’ve got your heart set on keeping it whole.

My preferred way to prep sprouts is by halving them. Remove any damaged outer leaves, trim off any extraneous stalk, then slice the sprouts lengthways through the core. The centre of the stalk end will be exposed more directly to heat, so the sprout will cook a little more evenly. But it also provides you with a lovely flat cross section that will colour up beautifully when pan-fried or roasted.

Now I love a sprout in all of its forms. Boiled and rolled in butter, roast, deep-fried, pan fried, finely shredded and tossed into a well-dressed salad. Give it all to me. But I will say that a simply boiled sprout is not necessarily for the entry-level enthusiasts. You’re far more likely to win over sprout-sceptics with one of the methods that adds colour, caramelisation - all of the mouth-watering flavour compounds imparted in the Maillard reaction. I made a similar point a few weeks ago in reference to cauliflower - the two brassicas have this very much in common.

Spiced fried sprouts with lentils & yoghurt

Recipe
Makes 3-4 portions

500g Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved lengthways across the root
1 heaped tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp chilli powder or paprika (plus a pinch to garnish)
A good pinch sumac
2 cloves garlic, crushed or finely grated
250g cooked green or brown lentils
1 heaped tbsp washed & chopped parsley
Half a red onion, finely sliced
Juice of 1 lemon (or red/white wine vinegar)
4 tbsp plain or Greek yoghurt
2 tbsp tahini
Olive oil
Salt & pepper

1. Cover the red onion with lemon juice and a good pinch of salt and set aside for at least 15 minutes

2. Place a large frying pan over a medium heat with a good amount of oil. Add the sprouts and stir until well coloured on all sides. Turn the heat low and continue to cook until just tender

3. Stir in the garlic, spices, salt and pepper and cook for another 2-3 mins

4. Stir the lentils and parsley into the pan with the sprouts to just warm through

5. Meanwhile stir together the yoghurt, tahini, salt and pepper to taste. Adjust to desired consistency with a splash of cold water if necessary

6. Spoon two thirds of the tahini yoghurt onto a serving plate, top with the sprout lentil mixture, dollops of the remaining tahini yoghurt, the drained onions and a pinch of chilli

Brussel sprout, crème fraîche & lemon pasta