All Things Aubergine (Everything Eggplant?)

Welcome to my first newsletter! Thank you so much for being here.

The temporary reprieve from the heat-wave in London means it’s again tolerable to get back in the kitchen and turn the oven on. So we are fortuitously starting this Substack journey alphabetically at A (or less fortuitously E, to my American pals), with all things aubergine. Technically a fruit, as aubergine is a member of the nightshade family - comprising such seemingly disparate members as tomato, peppers, goji berries and tobacco. But I’m all for ignoring these nonsense botanical classifications and calling a spade a spade / an aubergine a vegetable.

And it really is the most incredibly versatile vegetable, soaking up flavours like a sponge. It can add a really meaty element to lots of recipes. It’s one of my all-time favourites. But I must confess that hasn’t always been the case. I was, even in my vegetarian (and vegetable-loving) youth, an aubergine sceptic. I didn’t get it. Now I very much do. The turning point for me was in understanding how to cook it well.

The answer is so simple. No matter the dish or cuisine-type aubergine really needs to be cooked thoroughly. Any firm bite left in the middle of a piece of aubergine is deeply unpleasant. Which is partly why a recipe like Melanzane alla Parmigiana is so delicious - the aubergine is fried before being baked into a gratin. But a simple one-step cooking process does not a barrier to delicious aubergine make. You just need to be sure it’s cooked enough.

The centre should always be creamy and falling apart. If you’re on the fence about the doneness of a chunk of roasted aubergine, more really is more. Even in delicious crispy or breaded preparations which are quick to cook at high temperatures, the middle must be soft and creamy. I’ve had friends over the years tell me they’re not that keen on aubergine and I always tell them to just cook it more. And that really does tend to win over the naysayers.

To salt or not to salt?

A lot of traditional recipes call for salting your cut aubergines before cooking. This purportedly helps draw out bitterness - but is it necessary? Modern varieties of aubergine are less bitter than they used to be so this really isn’t needed. I’m yet to meet an aubergine that was diminished by any overtly bitter notes.

The one benefit of salting is to draw out excess water from the aubergine so that it doesn’t need to soak up quite as much oil while cooking. You can salt the cut aubergine all over and leave it to sit for at least 30 mins (or overnight in the fridge). Then rinse and pat dry before roasting with oil.

But for my money one of the great pleasures of aubergine actually is the delicious oil that it absorbs. Be liberal with it, say I. My non-negotiable here is to use an oil that you actively like the flavour of - as you really will taste it. Good quality extra virgin olive oil is my go-to but you could equally use an avocado or or sesame oil, for example, depending on what the flavour profile of your finished dish is going to be.

Aubergine and lentil ragu with soft polenta

This recipe is sure to win over aubergine lovers and loathers alike with a rich, yielding ragu on a silky smooth bed of polenta. I love using dried porcini to inject a real depth of flavour. The dish is decadent and delicious but packed with fibre, protein and all the good stuff. I use white wine in the base for a lighter sauce that’s ideal for summer. Double up the ragu and freeze portions to toss through pasta or spoon over mashed potato.

Note that the cooking time of the polenta will vary based on the size of its grind and if it has been pre-cooked. This recipe is based on the style that is readily available in UK supermarkets. The method is the same for a coarser ground polenta but it will take more water and time to reach the desired consistency.

Recipe

Makes 4 portions

1 large aubergine, diced around 1cm

4 or 5 sprigs fresh oregano, picked or 1 tsp dried

200g quick cook ground polenta

2 shallot, finely diced

100g green, brown or puy lentils (or 250g cooked lentils, drained if canned)

1 clove garlic, finely grated or crushed

Pinch chilli flakes

100ml dry white wine

1x400g tin finely chopped tomatoes

1 tbsp dried porcini mushrooms

Extra virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper

Parmesan to serve

1. Preheat the oven to 190c 375F fan. Line a large baking tray with parchment. Add the aubergine and oregano. Dress it very well with olive oil and salt and mix well. The aubergine should be well saturated with oil. Level into a single layer (divide into two trays if necessary). Bake until the aubergine is golden and completely tender inside (around 25-30 mins).

2. If cooking the lentils from raw - wash them, cover very generously with cold water in a large pan, bring to a simmer and drain when tender (around 20 mins). If using pre-cooked skip this step.

3. Meanwhile bring 500ml water to a rolling boil. Whisk in the polenta and simmer over a low heat, continuing to whisk at regular intervals until the polenta comes away easily from the sides of the pan (about 20 mins). Add more water as necessary to keep the polenta fairly loose. Season generously, then whisk in a good dash of olive oil.

4. Bring a kettle of water to the boil. Place the porcini in a heat-proof measuring jug and cover with 200ml just-boiled water. Leave to steep for 15-20 mins.

5. Meanwhile place a wide pan over a medium heat with a little oil. Sweat the shallots until softened, then stir in the garlic and chilli flakes. When fragrant stir in the wine and let it simmer until the pan is almost dry. Stir in the tomatoes and bring to a simmer. Stir in the lentils, aubergine and strain in the stock from the porcini. Finely chop the rehydrated porcini and add to the pan. Bring to a simmer and stir until thickened. Season to taste.

6. Spoon the polenta into bowls, top with the aubergine ragu and grate parmesan over, if you like.

Sticky roast aubergine, tomato and butter bean salad

The aubergine in this recipe is first roast, then tossed in a simple tomato vinegar marinade before being roast again. This means that the flavours of the aubergine are concentrated and the sweet and sour glaze doesn’t burn. It’s is a great one for hosting and hot days. It can be made up to a day in advance, chilled and reassembled at room temperature.

Recipe